awake

Perhaps it’s the barrage of recent earthquakes one island away and the distant reality of another tsunami that are keeping me awake. Perhaps its prayers unsaid, phone calls unmade, emails unanswered, work unfinished, suitcases un-unpacked, or the supposedly decaffeinated cups of chai tea that I gulped down during a late dinner that have me wide-eyed at 1:30 in the morning on a school night. But really, I should have known better... nothing in Indonesia is decaffeinated.

Whatever the reason, I find myself here in the glow of the laptop, the only one still awake in this big, quiet house. I was lying in bed just now thinking of so many things. One, of how my days here are all now running together in a mass of check marks on the calendar, waiting for The Day To Depart (how humanitarian of me, eh?).

It’s uncertain times in this disaster-plagued country. Though I was far from the recent tragedies, it’s nevertheless heart-wrenching to think of those affected... those who have already been through so much. I think the word is “unsettling” to describe it, as I’ve felt more uneasy here the past few days than I think I have the entire time I’ve been here. All the while, the Middle East is imploding, and government leaders are doing nothing to address the basic human needs and endangerment of at least a half a million innocent people displaced by and fleeing from the ruthless, senseless fighting. It’s so incredibly troubling.

Last week we were on “lockdown” one day in the office and not allowed to leave because of demonstrations going on the city. “Peaceful” demonstrations, but it’s almost like the word “lockdown” made it somewhat disturbing. In addition to disasters, Indonesia has its own political issues as well, the latest of which impacts Aceh directly. A precedent-setting bill was passed giving the province greater autonomy, resulting from negotiations which ended the decades of conflict prior to the tsunami. Some were pleased, but others still discontented. Regardless, to me, one of the most significant impacts is that it allows for the establishment of local courts that abide by their own religion-based rules that can, for example, strengthen penalties for women caught not wearing their veils, and so forth. Again, more unsettling news….

Anyway, to escape the fray (or unknowingly get closer to it), I left Banda for Jakarta last week for some meetings, then on to Yogyakarta for the weekend for even a greater change of scenery. No, not earthquake response this time, but seeing a sight – namely, one of the sometimes-unlisted wonders of the world, the Borobudur Temple. Built by Buddhists in the 8th century, the temple was mysteriously abandoned not long after its completion and rediscovered almost 1,000 years later by Dutch explorers. The architecture and artistry of the colossal structure are unmatched by almost any similar structure in the world. More than nine stories of carefully selected stones ascend upward in staircase-levels, culminating at a cylindrical tower representing nirvana, the highest state of existence in the Buddhist faith. Each sprawling level, though, is built of massive stones inlayed with carved relieves depicting the life of Buddha and his journey through the lower states of being. It was truly impressive and fascinating.

The following day we also had enough time to visit the Prambanan, a complex of Hindu temples almost as well known and as old as the Borobudur. Situated closer to Yogyakarta city, though, the ancient structures suffered quite a deal of damage during the May earthquake. Nonetheless, they were still open to the public, with dangerous areas fenced off for only distant viewing.

Though both structures were incredible and built with incomprehensible skill and labor so many centuries ago, I wandered around them with a glazed enchantment, remembering words etched in my memory years ago… The God who made the world and everything in it is the Lord of heaven and earth and does not live in temples built by human hands…

… but in the hearts of all people. Even at 2:00 in the morning...